Kehena Beach stretches along the remote Puna Coast of the Big Island near mile marker 19 on Highway 137, distinguished as one of the youngest black sand beaches on the island after forming in 1955 when lava flows cascaded down sea cliffs into the ocean. This long, narrow volcanic beach earned the local nickname Dolphin Beach due to frequent appearances of spinner dolphins that play in the waves offshore, delighting beachgoers with their acrobatic displays. Since the 1970s when the Puna Coast became a haven for bohemian and alternative lifestyle communities, Kehena has maintained its reputation as the Big Island's unofficial clothing-optional beach, a tradition that continues today with a mix of textile and naturist visitors sharing the distinctive black sand shoreline. The 1975 earthquake that devastated much of Puna caused the beach to drop nearly three feet and destroyed the concrete stairs that once provided easy access, leaving today's visitors to navigate a steep, rocky trail from the roadside parking area. The combination of dramatic black sand, frequent dolphin sightings, clothing-optional culture, and remote Puna location creates a unique beach experience that attracts free-spirited travelers, local residents seeking alternative recreation, and nature enthusiasts hoping to witness marine life in a strikingly beautiful volcanic setting.
Swimming at Kehena Beach is possible only when ocean conditions are calm, as the beach faces the open Pacific without protective reefs or breakwaters to buffer swells and currents. During periods of high surf, strong rip currents and dangerous undertows make ocean entry extremely hazardous, and even strong swimmers should exercise significant caution and assess conditions carefully before entering the water. The best swimming occurs during summer months and calm weather windows when the black sand slopes gently into relatively protected waters near the center of the beach. Spinner dolphins frequently appear close to shore, particularly in early morning hours, swimming alongside beachgoers and putting on displays of spinning leaps that inspire the beach's nickname. Sea turtles also inhabit these waters, often observed leisurely swimming or basking on rocks at either end of the beach. No lifeguards patrol Kehena Beach, and emergency services are distant given the remote Puna location, requiring complete self-sufficiency and solid ocean safety judgment. The clothing-optional nature of the beach attracts a tolerant, laid-back crowd, though visitors should be aware that photographing others without permission is considered extremely disrespectful. Dangers include not only strong currents and rough waves but also occasional cliff collapses from the unstable sea cliffs flanking the beach.
Access to Kehena Beach requires locating the small roadside parking area at mile marker 19 on Highway 137 along the scenic Red Road that follows the Puna coastline. The parking lot accommodates only a limited number of vehicles and fills quickly on weekends and during peak seasons, making early morning arrival essential for securing a spot. From the parking area, visitors must navigate a narrow, steep, and rocky trail down to the beach - the concrete stairs that once provided easier access were destroyed in the 1975 earthquake when the beach subsided three feet. Sturdy footwear like tennis shoes or hiking shoes is essential for safely descending and climbing the challenging trail, which is not accessible for wheelchairs, strollers, or visitors with mobility challenges. The steep rocky terrain makes bringing heavy beach equipment impractical. No facilities whatsoever exist at Kehena Beach - no restrooms, showers, changing areas, shade structures, or potable water - requiring visitors to bring all necessary supplies and pack out all trash. The remote location means no vendors, food options, or emergency services are nearby. Visitors should bring reef-safe sunscreen (crucial for those swimming nude), plenty of drinking water, sun protection including umbrellas or pop-up shelters, and respect for the beach's alternative culture and wildlife protection guidelines.
Dining options near Kehena Beach center on the town of Pahoa, located approximately 7 to 8 miles from the beach along Highway 130. Kaleo's Bar and Grill serves fresh-caught seafood, creative presentations of traditional Hawaiian dishes, steaks, burgers, pasta, and famous Lilikoi cheesecake with nightly entertainment in Pahoa Town. Luquin's Mexican Restaurant offers tasty tacos stuffed with grilled seasoned local fish alongside traditional Mexican fare, having rebuilt after a 2017 fire destroyed the original location. Ning's Thai Cuisine features excellent traditional Thai dishes made with locally-produced ingredients and attentive service. Pahoa Fresh Fish specializes in daily-caught seafood and fish and chips for casual dining, while Tin Shack Bakery provides fresh-baked goods, breakfast and lunch items, and excellent coffee for quick meals. The cultural significance of Kehena Beach extends beyond its geological youth and clothing-optional reputation - this coastline represents the ongoing creative power of Kilauea Volcano that continues building new land and beaches, demonstrating the dynamic geological processes that formed all the Hawaiian Islands. The beach's association with Puna's alternative lifestyle community reflects Hawaii's tradition of offering refuge to those seeking alternatives to mainstream culture, while the frequent dolphin visits remind beachgoers of the Hawaiian value of maintaining respectful relationships with ocean creatures. Kehena offers visitors willing to embrace its remote location, challenging access, and bohemian character a genuine alternative to resort beaches, where swimming nude alongside spinner dolphins on young volcanic sand provides an unforgettable Big Island experience unavailable at more conventional beach destinations.
