Haena Beach, also widely known as Shipman Beach, offers one of the Big Island's most rewarding coastal hiking experiences, combining a journey through lush tropical rainforest with arrival at a secluded black and green sand beach protected by an offshore reef. Located in the Puna district approximately 5 miles from Pahoa town, this pristine shoreline can only be reached via the historic Puna Trail, a 2.9-mile one-way hike that traverses old lava flows and dense jungle along a route that follows portions of the 1800s Alanui Aupuni, or Old Government Road. The beach's isolation, resulting from its location on private land surrounded property with no vehicle access, ensures that only dedicated hikers willing to commit roughly 90 minutes each direction will experience this special place, filtering out casual visitors and preserving the tranquil atmosphere that makes Haena such a treasure. The combination of accessible yet remote character, fascinating geological features, and abundant wildlife viewing opportunities creates a destination that rewards both the physical effort required to reach it and the cultural sensitivity needed to appreciate it properly.
The beach itself features a unique mixture of black volcanic sand and green olivine crystals creating a peppery appearance along the shoreline, while the shallow sandy bay contains cool brackish water fed by underground springs and a channel connecting to the Shipman lagoon. This mixture of fresh groundwater and seawater produces conditions noticeably gentler on skin than pure ocean water while creating a large, mostly flat swimming area approximately 3 to 4 feet deep with a sandy bottom ideal for wading and gentle swimming. The offshore lava boulder breakwater positioned several hundred feet from shore provides protection from open ocean swells, making Haena particularly family-friendly compared to many Big Island beaches, though visitors must understand that strong rip currents can develop due to the cove's shape and swimming should cease immediately when large waves appear in the area. Hawaiian green sea turtles frequently visit the beach to rest and feed, while endangered Hawaiian monk seals occasionally haul out on the sand, and the area's historical significance as the original Nene goose breeding site means these endangered native birds still inhabit the surrounding forest.
The hike to Haena begins at the dead end of Beach Road and Kaloli Drive in Hawaiian Paradise Park, where a left turn leads to the trailhead parking area. The approximately 5-mile round-trip journey takes 90 minutes each direction along a trail that remains almost entirely shaded but frequently muddy, requiring sturdy waterproof footwear and appropriate clothing for wet tropical forest conditions. The relatively flat route makes the hike accessible to moderately fit visitors of various ages, though the distance and conditions mean proper preparation proves essential. Hikers should carry adequate water for the full journey plus beach time, sun protection for the exposed shoreline, insect repellent for the forest sections, and food for an extended visit to this remote location with zero facilities. The complete absence of amenities at the beach, no lifeguards, and the significant distance from emergency services means visitors bear full responsibility for their own safety and must exercise sound judgment regarding swimming conditions, wildlife interactions, and physical capabilities.
After completing the rewarding but demanding hike to and from Haena Beach, visitors can refuel at several dining establishments in nearby Pahoa town, located approximately 14 to 16 miles from the trailhead. Kaleos Bar and Grill on Pahoa Village Road serves fresh-caught seafood and creative presentations of traditional dishes with nightly entertainment in a lively atmosphere perfect for celebrating a successful hiking adventure. Tin Shack Bakery offers breakfast and lunch items plus some of the Big Island's best fresh-baked goods alongside quality coffee, ideal for fueling up before or recovering after the trek. Nings Thai Cuisine focuses on high-quality locally-produced ingredients and homemade sauces, providing flavorful meals in Pahoa's competitive Thai restaurant scene, while Luquins Mexican Restaurant delivers hearty portions satisfying post-hike appetites. The cultural and ecological significance of Haena extends far beyond its recreational value, as this coastline holds deep importance in Hawaiian history and continues serving critical habitat for multiple endangered species. Visitors honor this heritage by maintaining proper distances from all wildlife, particularly the federally protected sea turtles and monk seals that face extinction pressures, staying on established trails to protect native vegetation and archaeological sites, and practicing rigorous Leave No Trace principles by packing out every item brought to this pristine location. Those who approach Haena with appropriate respect and preparation will discover that the combination of challenging hike, stunning natural beauty, unique brackish water swimming, and abundant wildlife creates one of the Big Island's most memorable and authentic coastal experiences, far removed from the developed tourist beaches that dominate other sections of Hawaii's shoreline.
