Keei Beach occupies a historically significant position along the South Kona coastline, marking the site where a young King Kamehameha I fought his first battle in the decades-long campaign to unite the Hawaiian Islands under a single ruler. Located just south of Kealakekua Bay and accessed via an unsigned dirt road branching oceanward from Puuhonua Road (Highway 160), this white sand beach speckled with black lava fragments remains primarily a local destination favored by fishermen, surfers, and the occasional adventurous sightseer willing to navigate the increasingly rough access road. The beach lies within a small coastal village where residents maintain strict prohibitions against camping and work to preserve the area's tranquil character despite growing visitor pressure on South Kona's limited beach resources. While Keei may lack the developed amenities and easy access that characterize more tourist-oriented beaches, this relative obscurity helps maintain an authentic local atmosphere that rewards visitors seeking genuine Big Island coastal experiences over manufactured resort environments.
The snorkeling at Keei Beach attracts those who appreciate diverse marine environments, with large reefs providing shelter to abundant aquatic life including numerous eels, colorful tropical fish, and the occasional Hawaiian green sea turtle. The left side of the beach offers the best snorkeling in shallower waters, while experienced freedivers enjoy the decent drop-offs that allow exploration of deeper reef structures beyond the protected cove. Swimming conditions present more challenges than snorkeling, as the nearshore ocean bottom consists of very shallow, rocky substrate unsuitable for comfortable wading, though a narrow sandy channel at the northern end of the beach provides more suitable swimming access during calm conditions. The combination of rocky bottom, shallow nearshore waters, and lack of lifeguard services means Keei Beach serves experienced ocean users better than families with young children or novice swimmers unfamiliar with Hawaiian coastal conditions. Kayakers sometimes paddle the approximately 2.5 miles from Captain Cook Monument to Keei, adding another dimension to the area's water recreation opportunities while providing an alternative access route for those equipped with proper watercraft.
Accessing Keei Beach requires turning onto the unmarked dirt road on the ocean side of Highway 160 between Keei transfer station and Keawaiki Road, then carefully navigating the rough, rocky surface for roughly half a mile to reach several small shoreline parking areas. Four-wheel-drive vehicles handle the access road most comfortably, though standard cars can reach the beach with patient, cautious driving over the deteriorating surface. The extremely limited parking accommodates perhaps 8 vehicles in the small lot, with additional cars forced to find rocky pull-outs along the narrow road where maneuvering becomes painfully slow as vehicles try to pass each other. Portable toilets and picnic tables near some parking areas comprise the extent of available amenities, with no restrooms, showers, potable water, or other facilities that beachgoers at more developed locations take for granted. The complete absence of camping infrastructure and village regulations prohibiting overnight stays mean visitors must plan day trips only, arriving with all necessary supplies and departing before dark to avoid navigating the treacherous access road without adequate lighting.
After exploring Keei Beach's historical significance and marine environment, visitors can refuel at several excellent South Kona dining establishments, with The Coffee Shack serving island-style breakfast and lunch from a spectacular lanai overlooking Kealakekua Bay, combining fast service, quality coffee, and cozy atmosphere with some of the coast's most breathtaking views. Manago Hotel Restaurant delivers authentic local fare with generous portions in a family atmosphere that has served the community for generations, famous for perfectly prepared pork chops at remarkably reasonable prices. The Theatery has emerged as a local favorite since Keei Cafe's closure, while Black Rock Pizza offers hand-made pies from scratch with an amazing patio view ideal for sunset dining. Honaunau Poke Shop provides fresh poke bowls and seafood specialties that showcase the day's catch, perfect for beachgoers seeking light, healthy post-snorkeling meals. The cultural importance of Keei Beach extends far beyond its role in Kamehameha's military career, as this section of coastline supported traditional Hawaiian fishing communities for centuries and continues serving as a gathering place for families maintaining connections to ancestral lands. Modern visitors honor these layered histories by approaching the beach with appropriate respect, minimizing impact on the small village community, following all posted regulations, maintaining proper distances from marine life, and recognizing that access to this special place represents a privilege that requires responsible behavior. Those who navigate the challenging access and limited facilities will discover that Keei Beach offers authentic South Kona coastal character unmarred by commercial development, providing windows into both Hawaii's pivotal historical moments and the ongoing daily rhythms of island communities that still depend on ocean resources and coastal gathering places for cultural continuity and family traditions.
